Cosmetic Regulation Update – February 2026
Regulatory activity during February 2026 focused on ingredient safety assessments, chemical classification decisions, and increased regulatory monitoring within the cosmetic sector. In the European Union, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) published several opinions covering ingredients used in lash serums, hair dyes, preservatives, and emerging cosmetic substances such as cannabidiol (CBD). These opinions often inform future amendments to the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. Meanwhile, developments in the United Kingdom and United States reflect increasing interaction between chemical regulation, environmental legislation, and cosmetic product oversight, with potential implications for the long-term regulatory status of certain cosmetic ingredients.
SCCS Opinion on Prostaglandin Analogues in Lash and Brow Products
Regulatory Update
During February, the SCCS published a final scientific opinion examining several prostaglandin analogues used in cosmetic eyelash and eyebrow enhancement products, including:
- Norbimatoprost
- Isopropyl Cloprostenate
- Ethyl Tafluprostamide
These ingredients are known to influence hair growth cycles and have been used in cosmetic lash serums marketed to promote longer or fuller eyelashes. The SCCS assessment raised safety concerns associated with their pharmacological activity and the potential risks related to repeated exposure in the eye area.
The opinion may lead to regulatory review of these substances within the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
Why Does It Matter?
Lash growth serums represent a rapidly expanding product category but often sit close to the boundary between cosmetic and medicinal products. Scientific safety concerns around prostaglandin analogues may result in future restrictions or prohibitions within cosmetic legislation, which could affect products currently using these ingredients.
Application / Impacted Products
- Eyelash growth serums
- Eyebrow enhancement products
- Lash conditioning treatments
- Eye-area cosmetic formulations containing prostaglandin derivatives
SCCS Safety Evaluation of Selected Hair Dye Ingredients
Regulatory Update
The SCCS also released safety conclusions regarding two direct hair dye colourants:
- Basic Blue 99
- Basic Brown 16
Following review of available toxicological data, the committee concluded that these substances cannot be considered safe for use in non-oxidative hair dye products, due to concerns relating to potential genotoxicity.
Future regulatory action may follow if the European Commission incorporates these findings into amendments to the cosmetic regulation annexes.
Why Does It Matter?
Hair dye ingredients are subject to ongoing regulatory review within the EU. Scientific opinions identifying safety concerns may ultimately lead to restrictions or removal of ingredients from permitted substance lists, which can affect semi-permanent and temporary hair colour formulations.
Application / Impacted Products
- Semi-permanent hair colour products
- Temporary hair dyes
- Colour-depositing hair treatments
- Direct dye hair colour systems
SCCS Opinions on CBD and BHA
Regulatory Update
Additional SCCS evaluations published during February addressed the safety of two widely discussed cosmetic ingredients.
Cannabidiol (CBD)
The SCCS concluded that CBD may be considered safe in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 0.19%, provided strict impurity controls are maintained, particularly in relation to tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)
The committee determined that BHA can be considered safe for dermal exposure in cosmetic products up to a concentration of 0.07%.
Why Does It Matter?
CBD has seen significant growth within the cosmetic industry but remains subject to regulatory uncertainty. Scientific evaluations such as these contribute to defining safe use conditions and may influence future regulatory decisions.
BHA continues to be used as an antioxidant stabiliser in cosmetic formulations, and periodic safety reviews help determine whether current permitted levels remain appropriate.
Application / Impacted Products
- CBD-based skincare products
- Cosmetic oils and serums containing cannabinoid ingredients
- Products using antioxidant stabilisation systems
- Formulations containing BHA as a stabilising ingredient
SCCS Opinion on Mercury-Containing Preservatives
Regulatory Update
The SCCS also evaluated several mercury-containing preservatives currently listed within the preservatives annex of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Substances assessed included:
- Thiomersal
- Phenylmercuric acetate
- Phenylmercuric bromide
- Phenylmercuric benzoate
- Phenylmercuric chloride
The committee concluded that these substances cannot be considered safe at the concentrations currently permitted in cosmetic products. As a result, their continued inclusion within the preservatives annex may be reconsidered in future regulatory updates.
Why Does It Matter?
Although these preservatives are rarely used in modern cosmetic formulations, regulatory reviews may lead to their removal from the permitted preservatives list. Such developments reflect the EU’s ongoing efforts to remove substances with unfavourable toxicological profiles from cosmetic ingredient inventories.
Application / Impacted Products
- Eye-area cosmetic products
- Legacy formulations referencing mercury-based preservatives
- Older preservative systems that may still include these ingredients
Talc Classification Decision Under GB CLP
Regulatory Update
In February 2026, the UK Health and Safety Executive reviewed whether talc should be classified as a carcinogenic substance under the GB Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation.
Following evaluation of available scientific evidence, the review concluded that the data does not currently support classification of talc as carcinogenic under the GB CLP framework.
Why Does It Matter?
Chemical classification decisions can influence the regulatory status of cosmetic ingredients. Under cosmetic legislation, substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (CMR) are typically prohibited unless specific safety exemptions apply.
The decision therefore maintains the current regulatory status of talc in cosmetic products marketed within Great Britain.
Application / Impacted Products
- Face powders
- Setting powders
- Body powders
- Powder-based cosmetic formulations
FDA Monitoring of PFAS in Cosmetic Products
Regulatory Update
As part of ongoing implementation of the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA), the US Food and Drug Administration has published findings relating to the presence of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in cosmetic products.
Analysis of product listings submitted to the FDA identified:
- 51 PFAS substances used in cosmetic formulations
- More than 1,700 cosmetic product listings containing PFAS ingredients
- A number of substances prioritised for further toxicological evaluation
Why Does It Matter?
PFAS substances have historically been used in cosmetic formulations to provide properties such as water resistance, durability, and improved spreadability. However, environmental persistence concerns have led to increased regulatory scrutiny globally.
The FDA’s analysis represents an early stage in evaluating the presence of PFAS in cosmetic products and may inform future regulatory actions.
Application / Impacted Products
- Waterproof mascaras and eyeliners
- Long-wear foundations
- Long-lasting lip products
- Cosmetic formulations using fluorinated film-forming ingredients
Summary
The regulatory developments reported during February 2026 reflect several ongoing trends shaping the global cosmetics sector. Scientific safety reviews remain central to the EU regulatory framework, with new SCCS opinions addressing ingredients used in lash serums, hair dyes, preservatives, and cannabinoid-based formulations. These assessments may ultimately inform future amendments to the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
At the same time, regulatory authorities in other jurisdictions continue strengthening oversight of cosmetic ingredients through chemical classification decisions and ingredient monitoring initiatives, including increased scrutiny of substances such as PFAS.
For cosmetic manufacturers and brand owners, maintaining awareness of regulatory developments is essential to ensure product formulations remain compliant as legislation evolves.
Advance Development & Safety Laboratories (ADSL) supports cosmetic companies by providing regulatory and formulation expertise across global markets, including:
- Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSR)
- Regulatory ingredient reviews
- Reformulation and compliance support
- Product testing and claims substantiation
- Global regulatory guidance across EU, UK, and international markets
Early assessment of regulatory changes can help minimise disruption to product development pipelines and support continued market access.
ADSL – Advanced Development & Safety Laboratories
Technical Team | Paignton, UK
